Friday, September 27, 2013

Sweet Corn Ice Cream

As previously mentioned, this past weekend was the last weekend for corn at the farmers markets [sob]. Never wanting to forgo a good deal, and because who doesn't love corn, we purchased a baker's dozen for $6. We also had some leftover corn from the co-op, so we ended up with fifteen ears of corn in the refrigerator. Yep, count it, fifteen!
There's only so much corn one can eat, so what to do with all the extra? Make corn ice cream, of course. Corn, or maize, if you prefer, is a common ice cream flavor back in Singapore, we call it jagung, which is Malay for corn. Mobile ice cream vendors [who also sell canned/bottled drinks] in Singapore operate mainly via motorcycles, you can usually spot them around tourist attractions and along crowded shopping streets, for example, Orchard Road. The ice cream comes in a huge block, and is cut into thick rectangular slices and served between your choice of crispy wafers, a folded slice of soft multi-colored bread, or just in a cup. Cones aren't usually an option.
Mobile ice cream cart parked on Orchard Road, Singapore 

Corn ice cream is somewhat of a rarity in America, which is curious because the U.S. produces so much of it, and corn is in everything. I've only ever seen it in New York, at one of my favorite ice cream joints, Cones on Bleecker Street.

I haven't made ice cream in a while, and I'd forgotten making a custard base is a time consuming process that takes finesse. I decided to double the recipe, since we had all that corn. Having to separate a dozen eggs was enough to turn me into a vegan; eggs are rather gross and slimy when you think about it. The old Cuisinart ice cream maker [I've had it for... possibly more than 10 years?] was exhumed and given a workout. The ice cream was delicious and creamy; my first attempt at corn ice cream was a success!
Milk, cream and vanilla bean infusion; that's 4 ears worth of corn kernels; the custard, after straining. 
Definitely worth the time and effort, and now we have a huge tub of it in the freezer, hooray! So much for Jamie's plans for eating healthier. A note on the ice cream storage container, I've noticed that in the past, when I've used plastic containers, the ice cream tends to take on a strange texture/flavor, just a weird mouthfeel that is hard to describe. I've not had any problems since I switched to glass, we now use Glasslock containers.


Sweet Corn Ice Cream
Adapted from the Kitchn, makes about 1 quart

1       cup heavy cream
1 1/2 cups whole milk
2       ears sweet corn, shucked, kernels reserved, cobs chopped into 1-inch chunks
1/2    vanilla bean or 1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
6       large egg yolks
1/3    cup plus 1/4 cup sugar
1/2    cup water
A pinch of salt

  1. Using a sharp paring knife, split the vanilla pod lengthwise into two halves, and using the blunt side of the knife, scrape the seeds from each of the pod halves and set aside. 
  2. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the cream, milk, corn cobs, and de-seeded vanilla pods [if using vanilla extract, add only in step #7]. Bring to a simmer, and gently cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon. 
  3. Remove saucepan from heat, and remove corn cobs and vanilla pods with a slotted spoon. Stir in vanilla seeds. 
  4. Whisk the egg yolks and 1/3 cup sugar together in a bowl until fully incorporated. 
  5. Slowly whisk in the hot cream mixture. Slowly being the operative word, you don't want to end up with scrambled eggs. Whisk until well combined and smooth. 
  6. Return the mixture to the saucepan and stir over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes, until custard coats the back of the spoon. Do not overheat, again, you don't want to scramble the eggs. 
  7. Strain custard through a fine sieve into a large bowl. Stir in vanilla extract, if using. Set bowl aside.
  8. In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the remaining 1/4 cup sugar, 1/2 cup water, corn kernels and pinch of salt. Bring to a simmer, and cook until kernels are soft, around 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. 
  9. Remove from heat, drain excess liquid, and stir the corn mixture into the custard.
  10. Place a piece of plastic wrap against the top of the mixture to prevent a skin from forming, and chill covered mixture in refrigerator until cold, around 3 hours. 
  11. When cool, process in an ice cream according to manufacturer's directions. 
  12. Transfer ice cream to an airtight container and place in freezer to harden.
  13. And finally, enjoy!
I could have done a better job scooping, but I hadn't thawed the ice cream for long enough, so it was still rock-hard and I couldn't wait any longer.
Also, I could have sworn "dethaw" was a word, you know, defrost + thaw = dethaw? ...no?

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